One can either squeeze between the fin and the wall or come around to the exposed face of the Sickle. Considering how temperamental the geology here is, it’s best not to wait to check out this Northeast gem, because it might be gone tomorrow. Take the water runnel down (again climber’s right) until it turns into a trail, which will take you all the way down to the lake next to the parking lot (take a right from here). Cannon Cliff. The climbing was great, and we made good time. The day started from my friends cottage on lake winnipasakie at 4 am. Now factor in the biting black flies and weather that sneaks up on you from behind the cliff, and you can see why Moby Grape offers all the finest charms of New England rock climbing. I was aid-climbing up the first pitch of One Drop of Water and was only 15 feet from the ledge I hoped to use as a belay when I heard that sound every Cannon climber fears: rockfall. It is a classic 5.8 wall climb, comparable to (but much longer than) Nutcracker in Yosemite or to Guide's Wall in the Tetons. It’s located in New Hampshire’s Franconia Notch State Park on the 1,000-foot-high Cannon Cliff, which is known for shedding rock. Despite its overall chossy composure, Cannon’s classic lines offer quality that rivals some of the best rock in Yosemite, though on a smaller scale. Mooney Mountain Guides - Day Tours, New Hampton Picture: Our hike up to Cannon Cliff Moby Grape - Check out Tripadvisor members' 100 candid photos and videos. Pricing. This one is worth doing at least once for the exposure, and there are a few options of varying difficulty to get to the top. Spring tends to be wet and seepy with some falling ice and sometimes rock to watch out for. Several 911 calls were made from the Moby Grape climbing route reporting that a climber had fallen after a large rock had dislodged and severed his climbing rope. Previous | Next . This area is extensive with lots of unexplored rock on both sides of the valley and some of the United States oldest rock climbs. There is no water at the climbing area, so get some before you come. We met in Lowell at 7 AM and made it to cliff around 9:30 AM or so. The cliff is composed of layered slabs of granite that seem to periodically give way and join the massive talus field at the bottom. The popular routes ascend pristine granite and can be over ten pitches long. The grades tend to be stiff, especially on the lower end of the scale, which is important to consider when choosing a climb. The Beast of the East. Powered by WP – Designed with the Customizr theme. He was now five feet above his last piece (a 0.2 BD X4), gripped, clinging to the dripping blocks that make up this left-facing corner. Even the most popular routes have unavoidable runouts and sections where falls will have serious consequences. May 31, 2016 | In MyAdventures, New Hampshire, Upper-Right, White Mountains | By David Lottmann. Le groupe réalise un rock inspiré du folk, du blues, de la country et du jazz Biographie. Partners: Rob, Iain: Route: Moby Grape (5.8, 9 pitches) Date: June 18, 1995: Between the frogs and the traffic, I was getting no sleep. Franconia: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 just before 4:00 PM NH Fish and Game Conservation Officers were alerted to a climbing accident on Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park. We both held our breath as Alex tiptoed back down to a small ledge to regain the standard route, which we finished without a hitch. Cannon continues to shed large chunks, with the massive flake that formed the whale’s back on the final pitch of the classic Whaleback Crack coming down in 1997 and the “Old Man in the Mountain,” New Hampshire’s state emblem since 1945, collapsing in 2003. Convinced that these new ropelengths could be the money pitches of a popular moderate, Cote came back with Roger Martin in 1972 to make Moby Grape’s first integral ascent. NH guide Jordan Cargill opts for the right side of the Finger, heel-hooking with hundreds of feet of air below him. With spectacular routes that can take up to two days, most can be done in a half day and even alot of one or two pitch climbs. I mistakenly took us up the Moby Grape approach trail forgetting that the Lakeview trail requires taking a hard right on the Pemi Trail after crossing the bridge. Highlight. No matter, this only probably cost us 5-10 minutes. For young aspiring trad climbers in New England this is the test piece cliff. After the treaturous approach over the talus field, we climbed Moby Grape (5.8, 8 pitches). There is often a nasty black fly season in May/June in this area of New Hampshire. Un court extrait de Matthieu et moi sur Reppy's Crack au début de Moby Grape. The group continues to perform occasionally. Cannon Cliff contains the only real big wall climbing on the east coast. From the beginning of my climbing I was taught to have a special respect for the dangers and challenges of climbing on Cannon Cliff. Moby Grape Area. Rob, Iain, and I were crashed next to Profile Lake, just a little too close to I-93. Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch State Park, New Hampshire, © 2021 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. If you brought your mountain bike, the best riding in the Northeast can be found about an hour north at Kingdom Trails. Spotting the triangular roof on what would become pitch two of Moby Grape, Cote led this sweet ropelength with a tricky crux—a balancey move up and over the roof—only to glimpse the alluring Finger of Fate, an improbably attached flake protruding from a Reaper-like sickle. Un grimpeur perd la vie à Cannon Cliff 2020-09-25 Ben Kessel, 34 ans de Sommerville au Massachusetts a perdu la vie dimanche le 20 septembre alors qu’il grimpait la voie Moby Grape (5.8) à … Franconia, NH – On Sunday, September 20, 2020 just before 4:00 p.m., NH Fish and Game Conservation Officers were alerted to a climbing accident on Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park. Vertigo 5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A0 R Avg: 3.8 from 108 votes Routes in 4. Just don't stray from your chosen route, as you may find yourself in one of Cannon's … If you decide to top out (which is recommended for climbs like Moby Grape and Whitney Gilman), there are two main ways to descend. Though the original first pitch climbed the left corner of the buttress, Reppy's … 45 second video: Climbing Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff - YouTube I then slithered onto the top of the fin, having experienced the magic of the Finger. 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